TOTOPE, Ghana: The old shore road to
Totope is now under the sea. Developers began carving out another road, but it
was washed away so often they abandoned it. Now the road to this village is just
a track across the sand.
On this southern coast of Ghana, the
Atlantic Ocean is rising. Every few years, residents of a string of villages
leave their homes and build new ones farther back, abandoning them to the
encroaching sand and water.
But Totope has no place left to run. It
is squeezed between the ocean and the Songho Lagoon, and the villagers say that
in a few years they will have to go.
"When I was young, you had to
climb a coconut tree to see the sea," said Alex Horgah, a 57-year-old fisherman,
sitting under a thatch shelter. The old men of the village say every year the
shore advances a few yards (meters).
No one knows why the sea has
risen here so steadily over the decades, and no scientists have come to collect
data.
But if predictions of the impact of climate change run true,
this could be a preview for many coastal areas.
In Accra, Ghana's
capital about 60 miles (100 kilometers) to the west, a weeklong 160-nation
conference is meeting through Wednesday to work on a treaty to limit global
warming and combat the consequences of climate change.
Negotiators
have a deadline of December 2009 to complete one of the most complex and
difficult international agreements in history. They need to map out ways to
drastically reduce emissions of carbon and other greenhouse gases blamed for
global warming, and devise a flow of hundreds of billions of dollars every year
to help poor countries cope with changing weather.
Scientists say
rising sea levels will be one of the most severe consequences of global warming,
along with more drought and floods, the extinction of species of plants, animals
and insects, and greater stress on water supplies for millions of
people.
The world's oceans have been rising an average of 3
millimeters (0.12 inches) a year since 1993, according to a 2007 report by the
Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change, drawing on the work of some 2,000
scientists.
The panel warned that unless global warming is reined in,
millions of seaside dwellers will experience flooding, up to one-third of
coastal wetlands will be lost, and increasingly ferocious storms will batter the
shores.
The disaster scenarios for the future are today's reality for
the 1,000 people of Totope.
Abandoned concrete buildings are half
submerged under sand. Thatched huts have been repeatedly moved back. And about
one mile (1.6 kilometers) offshore, an entire settlement lies deep under the
water, submerged many years ago. Fishermen say they have to detour around the
old underwater buildings which snag their nets.
"Every year the sea
comes closer. We keep moving the village, and we are being pushed down to the
lagoon," said Ebenezer Koranteng, 70.
He thought the village would
become unlivable within five years. As if the encroaching sea was not bad
enough, the village faces more misery: Fishing stocks have declined, and modern
trawlers are scooping up most of what's left.
The beach is littered
in plastic garbage dumped into the ocean from Accra and other towns. The
villagers have taken tons of the plastic to the lagoon and covered it with sand,
creating a landfill to give them a few more meters (yards) of space and a few
more years to live on this spot.
Horgah said the village wants to
move. Land has been found on the other side of the lagoon, where they could farm
and continue fishing the lagoon. But the property costs US$45,000, and it would
take that much again to rebuild the homes.
Heather McGray, of the
World Resources Institute, who visited Totope with a reporter Monday, said it
would be the kind of village that would benefit from the fund that negotiators
want to raise to help climate-stressed areas.
"It's a problem of
money," she said. With one percent of the funds that could be raised in the
United States, "we could move 10,000 villages like this one."